Tiled flooring typically costs more upfront than laminate and is broadly comparable to or somewhat more than engineered wood, once both materials and labour are included — but tiles generally last considerably longer, which changes the comparison once you look beyond the initial price.
Material and labour costs compared
- Laminate: typically the cheapest option, roughly £15-£35 per square metre for materials, with relatively low labour costs since it's a floating floor system that's quick to fit.
- Engineered wood: typically roughly £40-£90+ per square metre for materials, with moderate labour costs.
- Floor tiles: material costs vary hugely, from roughly £15-£20 per square metre for basic ceramic up to £50-£100+ per square metre for premium porcelain or natural stone, and labour costs are typically higher than for laminate or wood, since tiling requires more skill, more preparation (a completely flat, rigid subfloor), and more time.
Why tiling costs more in labour
Unlike laminate or engineered wood, which are largely floating or click-together systems, tiling is a wet trade involving adhesive, grout, precise cutting around obstacles, and often waterproofing (tanking) in wet areas. It also demands a very flat, rigid subfloor — see our guide to floor levelling compound — since tiles will crack over an uneven or flexing surface in a way that more forgiving flooring types won't.
Lifespan changes the comparison
A well-fitted tile floor can realistically last 20-30+ years or more with minimal wear, considerably longer than laminate (typically 10-15 years) and often longer than engineered wood unless it's periodically refinished. Factored per year of use, the higher upfront cost of tiling narrows significantly, and in kitchens and bathrooms specifically, tile's water resistance also avoids the moisture-related problems covered in our guide to flooring and moisture issues.
Practical differences beyond cost
- Comfort underfoot: tile is harder and colder than wood or laminate, which matters in bedrooms and living rooms more than kitchens and bathrooms.
- Sound: tile can be noisier underfoot and echo more than wood or laminate, particularly in larger rooms without much soft furnishing.
- Repairs: a damaged tile can usually be replaced individually if you kept spares from the original batch; a damaged laminate or wood board is often easier to replace like-for-like without needing spares, depending on the click system.
- Underfloor heating: tile performs best of the three over underfloor heating — see our guide to underfloor-heating-compatible flooring.
Which should you choose?
For kitchens, bathrooms, and hallways, tile's water resistance and longevity often justify the higher upfront cost. For bedrooms and living rooms, where comfort and warmth underfoot matter more and moisture is less of a concern, wood or laminate is usually the more practical and cost-effective choice.
Maintenance cost over time
Tile floors need very little ongoing maintenance beyond regular cleaning and occasional grout resealing, with no need for refinishing over their lifespan. Wood and engineered wood floors benefit from periodic refinishing to stay looking their best, which is an added cost over the years, though it's also what gives them their long practical lifespan. Laminate needs no refinishing but also can't be refinished if it wears out, meaning full replacement is the only option once it's worn through.
Resale value considerations
Good-quality tile flooring in kitchens and bathrooms is generally viewed positively by buyers and rarely counts against a sale. Genuine wood flooring, including engineered wood, is also generally well-regarded, particularly in living and dining spaces. Laminate is viewed more neutrally — perfectly acceptable and won't put buyers off, but it's less likely to be seen as a specific selling point the way genuine wood or well-finished tile can be.
Repair cost comparison
Repairing a single cracked tile, provided you have a spare from the original batch, is usually a relatively contained job. Repairing a section of damaged laminate is often similarly straightforward with click-lock systems. Wood flooring repairs vary more depending on whether the damage is cosmetic (fixable by local sanding) or structural (requiring board replacement), which can make wood repairs the most variable of the three in terms of cost and complexity.
If you're renovating in stages and haven't decided on a final flooring type yet, it's worth getting your subfloor properly assessed early regardless — a flat, sound, moisture-checked subfloor is useful preparation whichever of the three you eventually choose, so it's not wasted effort even if the final decision changes.
Ultimately, the right choice depends on your specific room, budget, and how long you plan to stay in the property, so it's worth weighing practical factors alongside personal preference rather than choosing on looks or price alone.
Related reading: fitting carpet instead.
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